Africa, as a key destination for second-hand clothing, has fostered a thriving industry. The African clothing sector significantly contributes to the economy by creating jobs in areas such as handling, alterations, refinements, and distribution.
Additionally, it helps boost clothing demand across the continent by increasing fashion awareness.
According to a report by the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), five countries accounted for the top exports of used clothing in 2022 and they include the United States ($1.01B), China ($852M), United Kingdom ($430M), Germany ($360M), and South Korea ($351M).
On the other hand, the top global importers of used cloth were Pakistan ($250M), United Arab Emirates ($233M), Chile ($225M), Kenya ($202M), and Guatemala ($196M).
The OEC notes that as of 2022, the African used cloth market was valued at $1.75 billion.
According to the OEC, the table below shows the African countries that imported the most used clothes in 2022.
Rank | Country | Import Value ($) | % Import |
---|---|---|---|
1 |
Kenya |
202M |
3.57 |
2 |
Ghana |
164M |
2.90 |
3 |
Tanzania |
148M |
2.62 |
4 |
Angola |
127M |
2.24 |
5 |
Nigera |
94.7M |
1.67 |
6 |
Cameroon |
94M |
1.60 |
7 |
Mozambique |
84.3M |
1.49 |
8 |
Benin |
80.5M |
1.42 |
9 |
Madagascar |
56.8M |
1.0 |
10 |
Togo |
51M |
0.9 |
While trade in second-hand clothing imports from the United States, Europe and other Western markets is legal in some African countries, it has gone underground in other countries where the trade is banned.
In 2016, the East African Community (EAC) planned to ban second-hand clothes imports by 2019 to support the local textile industry.
However, the United States challenged the ban, citing potential violations of free trade agreements and threatening trade penalties, including losing access to duty-free exports under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).
To circumvent this, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, and Tanzania increased taxes on imported second-hand clothing, with Rwanda raising the tax from $0.20 to $2.50 per kg in 2018, aiming to protect the region’s textile sector.